Anders:
Thanks for posting the Noux design. I have learned a great deal just by looking at the drawings. On the plans, you describe the layers of CF used in construction of the fin, but I don't understand how the correct foil shape is created. Do you use a mold? Vacuum bagging? Other process?
All commercial fin producers that I know of use negative molds. The twill carbon fabric would go in first (outermost layer on finished fin) and then you would add unidirectional carbon. The fin does not need to be solid carbon so you can fill up the inside core with something lighter. Epoxy+microballoons, nomex, air (hollow fin), balsa etc. can all be used.
A nice way to make a mold is to cnc mill it from aluminium. Try to find a school or similar that has a suitable mill and talk nicely to the machinist...
A DIY way of making a decent fin would be to start with the core, say balsa, and shape it to the approximate final form less the skin thickness (maybe 0.5mm). Then add the uni-carbon to that and cover with carbon cloth. Clamp it all together with some suitably hard, but not too hard..., foam or similar. When cured you will have to do a lot of sanding and possibly fill in holes etc. but you won't need a mold and the fin will come out OK.
there is an earlier 'Layout-plan' from 2002 which has some more details. It has not been updated with the new-style deck and has an oldfashioned on-deck sheeting system etc., but it might be useful anyway: http://www.anderswallin.net/2002/05/noux-layout-drawing/
The NOUX lines appear to show the foredeck overlapping the cockpit by approx 60 mm - what is the purpose? If
Anders
The NOUX lines appear to show a 60mm overlap between foredeck and cockpit - am I correct? What is it for? If for longer sheet travel - winch closer to the bulkhead - how to do-up the holding screws? I can understand a small overlap at the centreline to strengthen the mast ram fitting but not full width!
Hsinli: I have a 3D IGES version of the noux if you are interested.
Peter: the overlap creates what's called 'mast partners' or a support for the mast at the foredeck level. This is similar to the Sails ETC boats or a Cockatoo which you can probably see in my report from Mooloolaba.
The vertical lines in the drawing should be at 10mm intervals so the overhanging part of the foredeck is around 20mm long.
The L-shaped thing from the aft-deck that extends further forward is an artefact from the way I construct the 3D model, the aft-deck should end just in front of the mast(at zero rake)
Hi anders:
First congratulations for your very nice web. I saw that you are making muolds of the Noux design. Do you have a moulded deck and hull avaiable for to custom finish at home. I like your design but i only will build one boat and perhaps is too much time expended making a mould for only one boat.
many thanks and best regards
Hi Angel,
We are still in the process of making the moulds. The Hull moulds and the kell/finbox mould are ready. We will use the same fin, rudder, and bulb on the Noux2 as we used on the Noux. So, we are waiting for the deck-moulds - when they are ready we will start making boats, the laminates will probably be available for sale also - check this website during the summer, hopefully in June-July I can tell you more.
1. Comment by Doug Hemingway
15/Nov/2005 at 10:35
Anders:
Thanks for posting the Noux design. I have learned a great deal just by looking at the drawings. On the plans, you describe the layers of CF used in construction of the fin, but I don't understand how the correct foil shape is created. Do you use a mold? Vacuum bagging? Other process?
Regards,
Doug Hemingway
2. Comment by Administrator
18/Nov/2005 at 03:36
Hi Doug,
All commercial fin producers that I know of use negative molds. The twill carbon fabric would go in first (outermost layer on finished fin) and then you would add unidirectional carbon. The fin does not need to be solid carbon so you can fill up the inside core with something lighter. Epoxy+microballoons, nomex, air (hollow fin), balsa etc. can all be used.
A nice way to make a mold is to cnc mill it from aluminium. Try to find a school or similar that has a suitable mill and talk nicely to the machinist...
A DIY way of making a decent fin would be to start with the core, say balsa, and shape it to the approximate final form less the skin thickness (maybe 0.5mm). Then add the uni-carbon to that and cover with carbon cloth. Clamp it all together with some suitably hard, but not too hard..., foam or similar. When cured you will have to do a lot of sanding and possibly fill in holes etc. but you won't need a mold and the fin will come out OK.
Anders
3. Comment by Peter Trimmer
22/Jan/2006 at 16:58
Anders
Where are the notes Doug refers to? Is there more info than shown on the pdf page?
Pete Trimmer
4. Comment by Administrator
23/Jan/2006 at 02:09
Hi Pete,
there is an earlier 'Layout-plan' from 2002 which has some more details. It has not been updated with the new-style deck and has an oldfashioned on-deck sheeting system etc., but it might be useful anyway:
http://www.anderswallin.net/2002/05/noux-layout-drawing/
Anders
5. Comment by Hsinli Liu
7/Mar/2006 at 08:49
Hi,
Do you mind to provide 3D dxf lines plans of your Noux ?
Thanks and Regards,
Hsinli
6. Comment by Peter Trimmer
7/Mar/2006 at 22:18
Anders
The NOUX lines appear to show the foredeck overlapping the cockpit by approx 60 mm - what is the purpose? If
Anders
The NOUX lines appear to show a 60mm overlap between foredeck and cockpit - am I correct? What is it for? If for longer sheet travel - winch closer to the bulkhead - how to do-up the holding screws? I can understand a small overlap at the centreline to strengthen the mast ram fitting but not full width!
Pete Trimmer
7. Comment by Administrator
8/Mar/2006 at 00:39
Hsinli: I have a 3D IGES version of the noux if you are interested.
Peter: the overlap creates what's called 'mast partners' or a support for the mast at the foredeck level. This is similar to the Sails ETC boats or a Cockatoo which you can probably see in my report from Mooloolaba.
The vertical lines in the drawing should be at 10mm intervals so the overhanging part of the foredeck is around 20mm long.
The L-shaped thing from the aft-deck that extends further forward is an artefact from the way I construct the 3D model, the aft-deck should end just in front of the mast(at zero rake)
Lester Gilbert has thought about the effect of mast partners, I don't recall exactly where this page is, but start at:
http://www.onemetre.net/Build/Shrouds/Shrouds.htm
having said that, a number of the top boats (TS-3, Disco, and so on) do not use mast partners.
Anders
8. Comment by ANGEL SANZ
23/May/2006 at 00:31
Hi anders:
First congratulations for your very nice web. I saw that you are making muolds of the Noux design. Do you have a moulded deck and hull avaiable for to custom finish at home. I like your design but i only will build one boat and perhaps is too much time expended making a mould for only one boat.
many thanks and best regards
9. Comment by Administrator
23/May/2006 at 02:04
Hi Angel,
We are still in the process of making the moulds. The Hull moulds and the kell/finbox mould are ready. We will use the same fin, rudder, and bulb on the Noux2 as we used on the Noux. So, we are waiting for the deck-moulds - when they are ready we will start making boats, the laminates will probably be available for sale also - check this website during the summer, hopefully in June-July I can tell you more.
Anders