Comments on: Building Bow Bumpers http://www.anderswallin.net/2010/01/building-bow-bumpers/ Wed, 08 Feb 2012 22:20:27 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 By: Nigel http://www.anderswallin.net/2010/01/building-bow-bumpers/#comment-656 Nigel Thu, 28 Jan 2010 10:16:53 +0000 http://www.anderswallin.net/?p=2438#comment-656 Hi Anders, check Ralphs online shop at: http://www.rt-sails.de/contents/de/d73.html He offers a two part silicone which cures in about 15h and gives you a pot life of 90 Min. The base silicon is white and it can be colored with pigment. Hi Anders,

check Ralphs online shop at: http://www.rt-sails.de/contents/de/d73.html
He offers a two part silicone which cures in about 15h and gives you a pot life of 90 Min. The base silicon is white and it can be colored with pigment.

]]> By: Patrick Parisienne http://www.anderswallin.net/2010/01/building-bow-bumpers/#comment-655 Patrick Parisienne Wed, 27 Jan 2010 11:05:27 +0000 http://www.anderswallin.net/?p=2438#comment-655 Hi Anders, I also mould bow bumpers using 2 part silicone rubber. Craig Smith advised me of this. It is manufactured here in Australia. Buying a 1 litre pot, with 50 ml hardener, will mould over 50 bumpers. We normally use 15-20 ml of part A and just 1 or 2 drops of hardener. Cure time ranges from 15 to 30 minutes, dependent on ambient temperature. Of 2 different hardness types, I chose the firmer compound. This is very white in colour, and doesn't require extra pigmentation. It does not require any release agent, it simply peels out. Hi Anders,

I also mould bow bumpers using 2 part silicone rubber. Craig Smith advised me of this. It is manufactured here in Australia. Buying a 1 litre pot, with 50 ml hardener, will mould over 50 bumpers. We normally use 15-20 ml of part A and just 1 or 2 drops of hardener. Cure time ranges from 15 to 30 minutes, dependent on ambient temperature.

Of 2 different hardness types, I chose the firmer compound. This is very white in colour, and doesn't require extra pigmentation. It does not require any release agent, it simply peels out.

]]> By: Hew Hamilton http://www.anderswallin.net/2010/01/building-bow-bumpers/#comment-654 Hew Hamilton Wed, 27 Jan 2010 02:43:17 +0000 http://www.anderswallin.net/?p=2438#comment-654 We have made molds of the "finished" bow of a boat, using a two part polyurathane molding compound from http://smooth-on.com . Actually, we found an art supply store locally, that carries the smooth-on products, used for mold making. Brush onto the hull and bumper "plug". It is pretty thick, but can be thickened even more with most powered fillers. Use polyurathane for the mold because silicone won't stick to it. Be sure to carry the mold back a few inches onto the hull. When cured, mark where the hull ends on each side of the mold, then peel the mold off of the hull, and remove the plug from inside it. I left the very top of the mold open. Rough up the bow flat with course sandpaper, slip the mold back onto a hull to your marks, then use a 2 part silicone and slowly pour into the top of the mold. The mold peels off after cure. If the bumper wants to peel off too, it can be re-attached with some high temp rtv. We also tint the silicone with a few drops of water based, acrylic paint, to match the hull color. usually 3-6 drops of paint is enough. Works really nice. Photo at http://www.flickr.com/photos/hew_hamilton/4307503921/in/set-72157604340965096/ With your mold, much of this is not needed, just the silicone and some paint! We have made molds of the "finished" bow of a boat, using a two part polyurathane molding compound from http://smooth-on.com . Actually, we found an art supply store locally, that carries the smooth-on products, used for mold making. Brush onto the hull and bumper "plug". It is pretty thick, but can be thickened even more with most powered fillers. Use polyurathane for the mold because silicone won't stick to it. Be sure to carry the mold back a few inches onto the hull. When cured, mark where the hull ends on each side of the mold, then peel the mold off of the hull, and remove the plug from inside it. I left the very top of the mold open.

Rough up the bow flat with course sandpaper, slip the mold back onto a hull to your marks, then use a 2 part silicone and slowly pour into the top of the mold. The mold peels off after cure. If the bumper wants to peel off too, it can be re-attached with some high temp rtv.

We also tint the silicone with a few drops of water based, acrylic paint, to match the hull color. usually 3-6 drops of paint is enough. Works really nice.

Photo at http://www.flickr.com/photos/hew_hamilton/4307503921/in/set-72157604340965096/

With your mold, much of this is not needed, just the silicone and some paint!

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